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Oil & Filter


Update on an old topic

Oct 07

    I bought this "drill pump" at a garage sale a year ago and like all junk things I buy, it was with the anticipation that it would make my life easier.  Never used it until the last oil change in the boat.  So to my delight... it worked.  If it didn't I wouldn't event be posting it.  I really thought it wouldn't prime well and it would be just another cheap piece of junk.  Maybe I could sale it in my garage sale.  But I was wrong.

 

    As you can see in the pictures above, I got all the "stuff" ready as I did in the first write up below.  I had to do some hose connections for the "drill pump."  Not much but I didn't go down into the dip stick housing this time I only slid the hose over the dip stick tube.  Worked just as well.  Of course the I ran the engine first to get the oil hot.  Almost melted the water jug I was using to hold the old oil.  The pump worked great and I would recommend trying one just to make this task a little more fun (if that's possible).  Oh, one additional thing, I didn't make my usual mess.  Much cleaner.

 

    I also changed oil filter brand this time.  Did some research and found a guy that I guess on his on, cut open several oil filter (that are specified for a Westerbeke W30) and did research on them.  Check out this web page document below. 

(My choice AC Delco Duraguard PF2 

 

Engine Oil Filter Study

Link to this site of Russ W. Knize

 

Below is the original article on Changing the Oil & Filter

Changing the Oil & Filter

(By the Pictures)

When to Change

Well I guess there is some recommended number of engine hours but I change the oil each twice a year.  The whole process takes 45 min and the cost is low.  The Westerbeke Engine manual recommends ~ 5 qts of Rotella T. 

I get it at Wal-Mart along with the FRAM filter T68A.  You will need a filter wrench along with some paper towels, trash bags and a small wide mouth funnel.  I remove the oil by pumping it out with a hand pump.  I know there are better ways and cleaner ways and real slick ways of changing the oil, but this works and is paid for.

(See other acceptable oil filters at ENGINE DATA)



The Process

     Before you start this whole potently messy operation, you need to run the engine up to operating temperature to get the oil good and hot.

     Entering in through the left side of the salon engine compartment I slip the intake pump hose over the 3/8" dipstick housing.  Yes, of course you remove the dipstick first!

     In picture
A you can see the hose inserted down over the housing.

     In picture
B you can see what the end product looks like once you have pumped all the oil you can get out of the dipstick housing.  This could be real messy so make sure you have the cabin sole covered with oil cloth or paper towels.  Remember that bit of getting the oil good and hot?  Well the brass pump of mine does heat up and I usually have to wrap a rag around the pump body while holding it.

     As soon as I'm finished pumping all the oil I can get out, I bag the pump back up and store it under the port bunk.  Picture
C shows the 1 gal milk carton about 3/4 full of old oil.  This worked out to about a 3 qts of removed oil.  Add to that the remaining oil in the pump (small amount) and the remaining oil in the engine pan (tilted back at 13 degrees) and the oil remaining in the oil filter and you have about 5 qts.

     So the oil is out and next is the oil filter, picture
DBefore taking this loose, use a plastic bag with some paper towels and form a bucket under the filter.  This will really help the clean up process.  Get the bag right up to the engine block under the filter.  See picture E.

     I use a filter wrench to just loosen the oil filter.  See picture F.  When you have the filter unscrewed pull it off quickly so you don't loose much oil in the catch bag.  Keep it upright and set it in the sink until you can get to it. Picture G shows the oil filter attachment fitting.


     Before putting the new filter on, give the new rubber ring a light coat of oil.  See picture H.  Screw on the filter hand tight and pull out the plastic bag and paper towels.  If you did this as described you should have a nice clean area under the new oil filter.

     Ah, now the fun part.  Pull out the right sliding drawer on the cabinet face.  See picture I.  This allows you to see what your doing when you pour in the new oil.  Remove the oil fill cap on the top of the valve cover.  Using the 1 qt containers of
Rotella T, add 3 qts of new oil.  Put the oil fill cap back on and start the engine and check for leaks around the filter.  Let the engine run for a couple of minutes and then shut it back down.  Allow the engine to set for a time and then pull out the dipstick and check the oil level.  On the dipstick there are marking for MAX and MIN.  Remember this assumes that the engine is mounted horizontal.  (In the Westerbeke manual there are several references to the, "tractor engine."  The W30 is really a British Leyland engine that was adapted to marine applications by Westerbeke.  See ENGINE DATA)  In picture J you will see the MAX, MIN and another scribed mark above the MAX line.  That is the oil level that I fill to considering the 13 degree back angle.  I go back and check this level a couple of times after running the engine to make sure I haven't overfilled the engine.
     So, nothing left but clean up and recording your engine hour reading and date in the log book.
     After reading this makes you want to just go out and change your oil for the fun of it, doesn't it!  ;-{


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