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Fuel Filter


Fuel Filter

(RACOR© Element R24S)

Filter Series R220
2 Micron Element
 

 

 

Racor Instruction Sheet

Closing off the fuel and removing the filter

     Clamp off (use tape to protect the hose) the hose from the filter to the fuel pump as well as the hose from the tank.  I do have plans to install a cut-off valve on the fuel line but it's not there yet.  Spread a bed of paper towels under the filter element to catch any drips of diesel fuel.
 

     Remove the filter element by turning CCW while keeping it level so as not to spill to much of the fuel.
 

     Dump the old fuel out in a bucket.  Use a paper towel to clean off the top screw plate on the body housing.  This is a good time to take a look around and see if the hoses are in good shape and the SS clamps are ok.

 

 

New Filter

     RACOR©, R24S filter, 2 MC

 

     Give that bowl a good cleaning before putting it back together. 

 

     Before putting the new filter back together give the rubber washers, 2ea supplied with the ONAN filter, a light coat of diesel fuel using  your finger. This helps to make a good seal top and bottom.

    

     Next I filled up the filter with diesel fuel as much as I could get in it.  The idea is you want to remove as much of the remaining air as you can before reassembling.

 

     Screw the filter and bowl assembly back on.  After you are sure it HAND TIGHT, release the vice grips on the hose.  (Did I say, don't drip the vice grips in the bilge.)

 

     Place a small container below the water drain plug and loosen the white plug.  Pump the hand-pump on the inlet hose from the tank until you have a steady flow of fuel out the bottom of the drain plug.  Close and HAND TIGHTEN the drain plug.

 

     So now you have the filter full of fuel but you also have some air trapped in the top.  To take care of that, loosen the Vent plug on top of the Filter Assembly (See picture of plug in my hand and directly below the mirror in the next picture).  Just loosening it is all you need to do.  I almost dropped this sucker in the bilge by loosening it to much.  While it is loose, use the hand pump again and pump it unit the fuel flows from the top without bubbles (the mirror helped a lot).  Once you are convinced all the air is out, tighten the vent plug back down and clean up.

 

     I ran the engine for 1/2 hour afterwards with out having to bleed the air out of the high pressure fuel pump.  See Bleeding the Air Out.

      I plan on running the engine another 8hrs to fully check out the air (or hopefully the lack of it) in the fuel system.
      As I indicated above, I have a hand pump (same kind as on an OB fuel tank) in-line on the hose from the tank to the filter.  I can pressurize all my fuel lines with this hand pump.  Never did like using that hand pump on the manual fuel pump much less the hand pump on the filter assembly. 


   

   

     

 

Article

The Oil Change that turned into the Fuel Filter Change from Hell
By Dale Mack, C30, Celtic Myst
(Off site link. Scroll down to the article)

The other Fuel Filter

     The Westerbeke engine has an onboard fuel filter attached to the rear of the engine.  The filter element is hard to get at and unnecessary (in my humble opinion) to ever change unless it's leaking.  The filter element is a WIX33166, which is a 10 micron filter downstream from the RACOR© 2 micron filter.

 

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