Engine Rebuild

Why Pull and Rebuild the Engine?
The Leaking Oil Pan
The oil pan on the 1979, 30hp Westerbeke had developed an oil leak on the bottom. I tried JB Weld and it worked initially but I never quite knew when it would eventually fail. My diesel mechanic suggested we disconnect the shaft, exhaust, and motor mounts and jack up the engine in place. I could then remove the oil pan and replace it without pulling the engine. This might have worked if the oil pan was my only problem. Read on....
Motor Check Oil Analysis
When I bought Mikhaya I collected a sample of oil from the oil filter and sent it away to MOTOR √ CHECK in West Palm Beach, FL. After three days they called me back with the report. Bottom line, the engine is in good shape. They did find 3/10 of 1% of water in the oil. This most probably was the byproduct of condensation from lack of use. The analysis also noted a trace of silicone. The previous owner had redone the head gasket and sealed it with liquid gasket seal. This could explain the silicone. I think the value of this report to me was having a baseline to start from. I plan on doing this every 3 years. Great article by Chris Caswell, concerning the "Oil Analysis," posted on...	Oil Analysis Result
Hydro Exhaust Connection Broken
The connection from the wet exhaust pipe into the Hydro-Silencer failed due to the rust, heat and saltwater. I was able to use an ACE adapter to clamp the two sections and get by for maybe three times out sailing. After that I had to replace the ACE adapter. The fix for this could only be a complete new exhaust system.
Engine wiring in a Mess
The engine wiring was a mix of original 1979 wiring with modifications from three previous owners. I found several ground points on the engine (as well as the boat), wrong diameter wires for the expected current and wires that did not go anywhere (disconnected at both end) taking up space. I did draw out the DC and AC wiring for the whole boat but the engine was still a real mystery.
Transmission Leaking
This transmission problem helped to make my mind up to pull the engine. The original *HURTH 10* was leaking transmission fluid from the rear seal. I managed to just reach top dip-stick (quite a task in a P35) and check the level. Feeling good about being able even to reach this, I decided to top it off. When I did … that is when I noticed the constant drip from the rear seal. I did entertain the idea of removing transmission while in the boat but the more I explored this the weaker I felt about unscrewing bolts I couldn’t even see or physically touch. No way one could do this!
Where To Pull The Engine
My capable diesel mechanic suggested I pull the engine at the dock using the boom as a lever. I thought this over and almost went with it except for the fact that I didn’t want to put that much stress on the boom (actual engine and transmission weight came to 485 lbs). All I could see was a visual picture of me, the person helping me and that engine in the drink. TIME TO HAUL OUT.