A Picture History of the Progress

The Engine Assembly
I disassembled everything except for the head, the shaft and pistons.  Everything was stripped off of the engine.  To clean the external of the engine I used a wire brush and a wire wheel.  I replaced all the sensors, gaskets, fittings, hardware and hoses.  All my replacement parts were bought over the Net, including the new transmission.

Oil Pan

My original leaking problem came from this pan.  I bought a new one from the British Leyland Tractor shop.  Gasket came with it.  I did have to weld the dip-stick bracket and 90° port to the left side.

 
Old pan with dip-stick port removed

New tractor pan ready to go bolt on

Wet Exhaust

From cast iron pipe and asbestos to brass pipe and heat wrap.  I laid out the old pipe and built the new with the same dimensions.  Westerbeke designed this layout for Pearson. The wet exhaust injection was at the top of the "T" junction.

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As a side issue, my Wet Exhaust is the same design as the one used for an Atomic 4

On the left you can see that the brass piping is unwrapped and the water injection point at the top

Hot Water Chamber & Heat Exchanger

I stripped and acid washed the Heat Exchanger and the Hot Water Chamber.

Oil Cooler

I sanded all the paint off and acid cleaned the brass oil cooler.  I ordered the gasket for oil cooler from an MG parts house.

Fuel Pump
(High Pressure)

I had the pump rebuilt and checked out professionally.  When I configured it back in the engine I followed the procedure in the service manual.

Fuel Pump
(Low Pressure)

I choose to replace this pump.  Will rebuilt the old one for a spare.  Bought my replacement from British Leyland Tractor supply.

Fuel Cut Off Solenoid-REMOVED

I choose to remove this out of date fuel c/o control.  Did not see a need for it.  If it every faulted I would have a heck of a time in discovering it.  I installed a manual c/o switch.

Glow Plugs & Fuel Injectors

I had the Glow Plugs checked out and the Injectors cleaned and calibrated.  Replaced one of the glow plugs.

New & Old Damper Plate
I did not have any special reason to replace the damper plate other than to just do it while the engine was out.  There was quite a difference between the two designs.

Engine Mounts

I cleaned up the rusty brackets and bought new mounts.  The new mounts greatly decreased the structure vibration with the engine idling.

The unclean brackets and old mounts

Positing the new motor mounts

Starter

I had the starter rebuilt and checked out.  If you ever need to change it once it's in the boat it's a big problem. The mounting bracket for the starter is sandwiched in between the engine and the left rear engine mount.

Transmission & Shaft Coupler

The HURTH 10 was replace by a HURTH 125.  It would actually cost more to rebuild than to buy a newer model. I cleaned up the shaft coupling and the shaft.  I used all new hardware and fittings.  New transmission shifting cables were also installed.

Top

The shaft coupler and new transmission before painting

My Test Bed

I finished assembling everything, connected my new DC wiring harness, filled a water bucket for the raw water intake, set up a fuel container & filter, connected up a mock control panel and pushed the button.  After bleeding the fuel several times...it started.  Ran it for 5 hrs and then shut it down.  My neighbors appreciated that last part.

Painting

After the engine ran for 5 hours I adjusted the valve clearances (Engine Alignment) and cranked it back up to run for another 2 hrs.  I taped up all the electrical connections, hose ports as well as other open ports and painted the engine with two coats of red engine paint.

Fuel Tank Pick-Up

Oct 07

Fuel Tank

I drained and disconnected the tank.  My son worked the tank up from inside the starboard side cockpit locker.  Once out, I degreased it, had new fittings welded on and installed a new fuel level gage.

My son working the tank out the starboard locker

Old & New Raw Water Intake Filter

Replacing the raw water filter enabled me to remount it in a place that would facilitate checking the filter without having to pull the sole boards.

New Engine Controls and Mounting

I replaced the gages and remounted them on a couple of well sealed teak boards.  I don't really like the meters mounted at feet level in the cockpit that could fill with water, but the holes were already there.  Makes better sense to mount them inside of the cabin near the DC/AC control panel.

 
Cockpit mounted engine control meters front and back

New P/S Engine Cover Boards

The old brown engine cover peg boards were shedding badly, so I used them for a template and cut out a new set from a sheet of white peg-board from Home Depot.

Starboard view of fore

and aft mounted boards.