I had the Fuel Injection Pump rebuilt and fully checked out.  It came back with the following information plate:
Cranking speed 11 psi (min),
1700 RPM - 50-62 psi,
2100 RPM - 72-84 psi,
Max speed is 4400 RPM,
Idle is 700 RPM,
Injection Pump Timing - G

    The procedure that I followed for installing the Fuel Injection Pump was taken from the
Westerbeke Tech Manual.

"To insure correct timing relationship between the injection pump and the engine the injection pump drive shaft and the drive coupling on the engine are provided with master spines; also, a timing mark is scribed on he mounting flange of the fuel injection pump and a timing pointer is secured to the injection pump hub in the crankcase."  -- Tech Manual
 

   I rotated the crank shaft to align up on the Timing Mark found on the crankshaft pulley, at 22° B.T.D.C.

     Next I inserted the newly rebuilt Injection Pump into the engine block housing and aligned it up on the timing mark "G" with the pointer on the engine block.  The injection pump shaft was keyed and would only fit one way.

      I finished this initial step by lightly securing the pump to the engine block housing with new hardware.

     After installing and aligning the injection pump I needed to connect the new engine control cables to the injection pump accelerator and shut-off control points.  According to Westerbeke..."the maximum speed as set with a tachometer is 2500 RPM.  The idling speed is set to 800 RPM."  - Tech Manual.  
After I had the engine in the boat and running, I adjusted these two damper screws on the injection pump and brought them inline with the recommended Westerbeke parameters.  The actual MAX Speed control was set by a physical restriction of the adjustment arm.

Illustration from Westerbeke Tech Manual

Engine Compression

     I called my diesel mechanic over to check the cylinder compression.  To check the compression he removed the Glow Plugs, one at a time and inserted a hand held pressure gage.  The engine was cold-cranked (not started) until a steady reading was observed on the pressure gage.  The meter was unscrewed and the glow plug was replaced.  The next glow plug was removed and the pressure meter was inserted and the engine was cranked again.  This was done for all four cylinders.  The initial cylinder pressure measurement results:

440 psi

440 psi

440 psi

465 psi

Westerbeke specifications for this engine is a compression ration of 23:1.  Outside pressure that day was around 30.9" inHg.  So a conversion of inHg to PSI produced 15.17 psi.  With a 23:1 ratio the cylinder compression needed to be a minimum of ~350 psi.  So my 440 psi and the one 465 psi was acceptable.

Valve Clearance Adjustment

With the engine cold, my mechanic adjusted each max valve rocker clearance to 0.015"  This took more time than I thought but the details produced a good adjustment for all cylinders.  Could be he just wanted to charge for the full two hours! :-{

    In order to start the engine for the first time after the rebuild, I had to do some major bleeding of the fuel line.  Some things I did that helped this process:

1- Installed a OB primer bulb in the fuel line between the fuel can and the prime fuel filter.  I also installed this in the boat.  I never had to hand pump the lever on the manual fuel pump (right side of the engine).

2- Filled the primary filter (RACOR) up with fuel before assembling it.

3- Filled the secondary fuel filter (WIX) up with fuel before assembling it. (I never change this filter)

4- I opened up the four injector connection ends of the fuel lines initially, to allow the fuel to run out while hand pumping the primer bulb.

   After doing the above and while the engine was still on the rack in my carport, I hand pumped the primer bulb until fuel just sprayed out all four line connections to the injectors.  Feeling that I had a good "bubble free," fuel line I tried to crank over the engine.  No such luck.  Time to bleed the Injection Pump.

 
     The bleeding locations on the Injection Pump can be see in the manual illustration to the right.  This page was taken from the Westerbeke Tech Manual.  Working back and forth between the Bleed Screw (1) and the Lock Nut (3) several times, the engine started up.  That was a good sound.  I think I even called several people at that point let them hear it.  The three special wrenches I used to bleed the Injection pump are now hanging inside the engine compartment.  The engine ran for 2 hrs. :-}

Staged for Starting
Fuel can and filters mounted.
Engine cooling
connected.

      After installing the engine in the boat (see Engine Reinstall) I was all prepared to go through this bleeding process all over again.  I gave the primer bulb a few squeezes and to my surprise, it cranked over and ran for 2 hrs.  To carry this story one step more, after installing the fuel tank in the boat I didn't have to bleed the Injection Pump. I cranked it over and she started right up. 

     I still had the fuel tank out of the boat so I could align the shaft. The fuel was drawn from a fuel can setting on the cabin sole.  The picture to the right shows the 2 hour run while on the hardstand.  I did have to regulate the hose water running into the bucket.

Aligning the Shaft

1-Picture 1 shows the original shaft and transmission connection.   I suspected the alignment was a bit off.  I still wonder what caused the shaft seal to leak on the transmission.

2- With the fuel tank out I was able to make a work place and provide it with enough padding to lay down.  This would enable me to take my time in aligning the shaft.  I  could not envision even doing this with tank in place.  (In the picture the shaft coupler is about 15" below my work light.)

3- This picture shows the unprinted transmission with the new shaft mating plates.

4- I placed the "keys," into the shaft key-way and centered the shaft coupler on the shaft.  Notice the shaft end protruding from the inside face of the coupler.  I had someone outside checking the prop clearance to the cutlass bearing at the same time I was locking down the coupler to the shaft. (Observation, If I ever wanted to install a "driver saver," I would have to cut the shaft off by at least an inch or the prop blades would hit the rudder.)

5- I next tighten down the two set screws and locked them down with Monel safety wire.

6- I inserted the four new bolts, nuts and washers loosely into the coupler and used a hammer to tap all four sides.  This made sure the fit was equal around all sides.

7- I tightened up the four bolts good and tight and then loosened them just a bit to enabled me to get my feeler gage in and check the alignment.

Top

8 & 9- Now the fun started...I had a new transmission, four new engine mounts with existing shaft coupler and existing motor mounting platform.  To my surprise the first alignment reading I had on the feeler gages was not too bad:

TL - 0.025"

TR - 0.015"

BL - 0.025"

BR - 0.025"
(Westerbeke published spec states "...coupling should be parallel within 0.002 inch between the flanges.")

Adjusting the engine mounts up & down and fore & aft after a good hour, enabled me to get a final feeler gage reading of:

TL - 0.010"

TR - 0.012"

BL - 0.011"

BR - 0.011"

After easing my stiff neck for awhile, I tightened down the motor mounts and the shaft coupler nuts.  I turned the shaft manually clockwise and it moved smoothly and evenly.  I ran the engine and watched the shaft coupler and the motor mounts for vibration.  All looked well.

10- After I was sure everything was a good as it was going to get and I had all I could physically take by laying with my head and shoulders down for over an hour, I gave all the nuts, bolts and set screws one final turn.

11- The shaft alignment to the transmission is finished.  All that is required is to drop the boat into the water and fill the PYI dripless stuffing box with water.

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